The cult mark was created in 1990 for Jun Takahashi being still a student in Bunka Fashion College. In 1993 there opened the first boutique in Tokyo called Nowhere where Takahashi announced its talent for the first time.

With inspiration of the British punk fused with the influence of streetwear American, it is described by the designer as: "nice but frightening, beautiful but ugly". The Undercover collections began to sofisticarse little by little and to give him importance to the femininity and to pay attention to the details and the tailoring.